HELPFUL HINTS

	HELPFUL HINTS
Please read our disclaimer	ANY CHANGES YOU MAKE WILL VOID ALL MANUFACTURES WARRANTIES. Cincy Slot is not responsible for any damages that may result from altering your slot cars. Results may vary. We use the powerful variable transformer and controllers from Professor Motor on out test track. All changes have worked well for us.

	Updated Scalextric Porsche Super Car
	In this version of our Porsche we will be using the following items:1-Scalextric DeWalt Porsche $42.95 1-Slot-it axel kit for sidewinder motors $16.99 1-set Indy Grips $4.00 1-Little Ripper motor $9.50 1-Fly round magnet $2.75 1-Professor Motor bar magnet $2.50. The total cost of this car is $78.69. You will also need a Dremel and Super Glue/Hot Glue. Either one will work. This set up works best with the Professor Motor transformer and controllers. When this review is finished The car will be for sale for $69.99. You won't be disappointed.
	THE CAR IN THIS REVIEW HAS BEEN SOLD. WE CAN MAKE MORE.
	This is the stock Scalextric De Walt Porsche
	This is the stock chassis
	Here we removed the rear axle, motor, and magnet
	With your Dremel you will need to trim off some plastic to the left and right of the axle mount. Be sure to only take off a little at a time. Once your motor fits tight, assemble the rear axle kit with the Indy Grips and snap it into place. We used the nylon bushing rather than the brass.
	On the motor you will need to bend the rear ear that the lead (red wire) goes to. Once the spur gear and the crown gear are fitted together apply super glue where the motor meets any plastic on the motor mount. You should do this on all your cars to prevent any motor twist. (Read below for Dan's tip on this subject) I glued the red wire down so it did not get in the way when I mount the body. On this car I reused the Scalextric lead tips for ease. Note that the round magnet has been moved forward.
	The front magnet was lowered flush with the chassis using a 3/8 drill bit.
	Do not push the magnet to far through, you will case too much drag which will damage the motor. Here we have glued the Professor Motor magnet to the under pan, which has plenty of clearance.
	This is the finished product. You can paint the rear wheels gold or you can paint the front centers black (I like that choice). Remember this car was built to run on 16V to 18V

	Get your Scalextric IRL car to handle by stacking magnets.
	This is all you will need. A Phillips screwdriver and 1 Fly rectangular magnet. Total cost about $31.00
	First take the body off of the chassis.
	Second pop the motor out.
	Third place the Fly magnet in the center of the stock magnet.
	This is the tricky part. You will need to trim the plastic tab around the right screw hole. Only remove a little at a time. You don't want to take off too much.
	Once that is all done, replace the body on the chassis. Screw it down and go racing. Just don't tell your friends this trick until after you have beaten them a few times. Enjoy!!

	Carrera Sauber F1
	We all know that Carrera has some of the best running motors out there. The problem is in the handling. After making one adjustment to your Carrera F1, you will realize that your car will be very hard to beat!
	This is all you will need to make the adjustment. One Carrera F1, tube of super glue, and 1 Fly Magnet.
	If you look at the rear axle housing you will notice that the rear gear housing is nearly the same size as a Fly rectangular magnet. Put a dab of super glue next to the housing.
	Place your Fly magnet right next to the rear end housing. Let it sit for five minutes. Now it is time to fly. Outside of a car with a Slot-it motor, this should be your fastest car.
	Your F1 will still come off the track. Besides, if it didn't, what fun would that make!!

Scalextric Porsche GT3R
	These are the things you will need. 1-Scalextric Porsche,1-Slot-it 25,000 Motor (assuming you have a Professor Motor controller, otherwise stay with the stock motor and gear), 11 tooth gear, Phillips screw driver, super glue, 1-Fly rectangular magnet, a solder gun, and a gear press. Silicone tire are preferred.
	First, take the body off the chassis. Second, take the round magnet and place it in the front position and add a dab of super glue. Then remove the motor and rear axle. Take the Fly magnet and place it in the rear pan of the car under the rear axle with a dab of super glue. Now use your soldering gun to remove the motor from the lead wires. I'll explain why in the next step.
	Now you will need to remove the lead wire from the Slot-it motor and solder the Scalextric wires back on. The reason we chose to do this is because of the ease of the terminals for the contacts. Now you can use this motor to plug into other Scalextric sidewinder cars.
	Now take your gear press and press on the 11 tooth brass gear. (I have since tried a 10 tooth gear. Wow!! This gives great low end speed) Then once you have the gear in place, take a Dremel tool and trim off the excess shaft on both sides (optional).
	Now carefully place the motor and rear axle back in place. Finally, put the the body back on and enjoy.

	Loose Engines by Daniel J. Dyke WARNING: The following fix should be done at your own risk. Sometimes there are problems with the way a slot car is made, but for some reason known only to the buyer he does not wish to return it to the dealer. One of these common problems is that the cars are not running smoothly and sound rough because the engine is moving vertically in the chassis engine mount. I have had this problem often with cars that with an inline engine configuration, but only once with a sidewinder. There are multiple ways of fixing the problem, but the easiest solution is going to be examined. The problem itself is not peculiar to any particular brand, but has been found in some of the SlotIt, SCX, Scalextric, Fly, and Ninco cars in my stable. Detecting the Problem The first thing needing mentioned is that the problem is not always easy to detect, but it is easy enough to fix and the fix will not hurt a car that does not have the problem. In other words if you do this to a car that has an engine that is not loose in its engine mount, it is not going to hurt anything. So how do you detect the problem? One sure sign is that there is a lot of gear noise at high RPMs, but when you run the car at low RPMs or turn the wheels by hand, everything feels fine. Another way is to remove the body and hold the rear of the car in the air and watch the pinion gear which is the gear on the shaft of the motor. If the motor or the gear appear to be moving up and down, then you have the problem. The less the movement the better and no movement is best. I have a Ninco Mc Laren GTR that has the Fina livery (the one with the British flag on the back and the words Fina across the front). Cool car, but it always sounded funny and would hop every so often under full power. When I removed the magnet, which is a good thing to do in debugging a car, the hop became more pronounced. Magnets sometimes mask a problem and it is easier to see what is happening when they are removed. The first move I made was to sand the wheels to be sure they were round, but this did little to fix the problem. The next step was to remove the body and watch the car run around the track. What happened was that the motor popped completely out of its bracket. It turns out that Ninco, the car's maker, had fitted a piece of plastic to the body that dampens this to a degree and prevents the motor from coming out when the body is attached. I loosen my bodies slightly as tests show that a car with this done will be faster, but with the body loose the engine was allowed to move more. When the engine moved the gears did not mesh correctly and so there is a lot of gear noise. Fixing The Problem How does one fix this problem? Either one makes a spacer that tightens the engine in its bay or one glues the engine in place. Usually I do the latter except in the case of ProSlot and SlotIt cars as the engine bracket floats in the chassis and the spacer works better. I have not had this problem with the new SlotIt Porsches, but did have it with the original Audi R8C. People often use CA glue (Cyano Acrylate), but the most effective fix is to get out the hot glue gun and run a generous bead of hot glue down each side of the motor and let it dry. Do not get the glue near the motor shaft or the gears. CA glue has a tendency to make the plastic brittle and it will break after time, but hot glue on the other hand, holds very well and can be removed more easily if you wish to change engines. If the glue comes loose then you just take it off and run a new bead. Note in the following picture where the hot glue was applied and how much was used. If the motor moves, add more glue until it stops moving. If glue does not cure it then you have major problems that are beyond the scope of this fix. Is the car faster? Yes. Is it quieter? Yes. Is it easier to drive? Yes, because anytime a machine works more efficiently, it is a better machine. If are confused and live in Cincinnati you can bring your cars over to my house and I will show you how to do it. I am in the phone book. The rest of you should move to our fair city and help make it the slotting capital of the world. Dan (dan.dyke@goodnews.net) Spei Meliorum Temporum! (In Hope of Better Lap Times!)